Hello, I’m Tatyana Eliseeva, master of sports of international class in motorsport, auto blogger. I want to share my impressions about the trip to the Republic of Komi, which became possible thanks to the “GAZ Travel” project.
Unexplored roads always attract lovers of travel, extreme people and just inquisitive tourists. We were given the opportunity to participate in the fascinating autotouring under the epic title “The Northern Necklace”.
Autotour passed within the framework of the project “GAZ travel”. I must say that the main task with which I moved to uncharted areas for tourists was the passport certification of the route.
Yes, it does not sound very, but in fact, very interesting and, I would like to think, a useful lesson. According to the results of the tour, which takes place on off-road vehicles “Sable 4×4”, a unique path for foreign tourists (I would like to think) and domestic tourists will be put into operation.
About the route
The route covers a distance of 1410 km. The planned program includes the following settlements: Syktyvkar, Ukhta, Sosnogorsk, Komsamolsk-on-Pechora, Dayka, Emva, Ezholty and others.
The expedition is carried out on cars “Sable 4×4” – this car will transport tourists who want to admire the unforgettable beauties of the North. Avtotourism receives a lot of attention from the “GAZ Group”, and the expedition itself is organized simply superbly. The start was scheduled for March 10, 2018.
Start. First impressions
As soon as we hear Komi, our images are immediately drawn (this is not accurate) images of hard labor, links and thousands of prisoners … And yes, these are primarily stereotypes.
The Republic of Komi, as it seemed to me, is a separate region, its life goes on there, there still is a feeling of originality in the air, and this is important. Color, with which the atmosphere is filled, can not be expressed in words, it must be felt.
Our trip began with the morning rally, after which we went to the local center of the GAZ Group in Syktyvkar, where the start was planned.
When they talk about the North, immediately it looks like a terrible cold, snow and wild frost. Of course, so it is, but all these frightening moments here miraculously become a highlight and do not bring discomfort to rest. Again stereotypes.
Dazzling white snow everywhere: on the roofs of huts, mighty trees and boundless fields. The roads at this time of year are surprisingly flat. Winter covered them with snow, and the winds leveled.
On them, we went to pave the way for future tourists and fans of autotravel.
Despite the fact that the route involves moving on any cars, we were on our Sables 4×4. At the same time, it was possible to check their patency and our recklessness once again: we decided to shorten the route according to the “short” distance offered by the navigator, then we decided to go to a beautiful species site, which can only be reached in the summer on a long uncleaned path.
Features of the far corners of Komi
On the route with a length of just over 1,400 km, we visited a number of settlements, each of which is attractive in its own way. The way passed through such cities and villages as: Small Anib, Ust-Vym, Ukhta, Syktyvkar, Troitsko-Pechersk, Sosnogorsk, Gajakeros, Semukovo and many other magnificent places.
Everywhere has its own characteristics. For example, driving through Gajakeros, we noticed that almost every house has special crosses. It turns out that they play the role of amulets.
The asceticism of life has brought here various people: hermits, a strict closed community of Orthodox novices, a community of Protestants, Old Believers. One of such communities of hermits is in the village of Vazhkurya.
The Old Believers came here in the time of Ivan IV the Terrible from Veliky Novgorod through Pechora.
The first exiles in this region were clergymen of high rank 1920-1930. Many of them were shot in the Lower Plague. All priests were exiled here, in Komi.
The overwhelming majority of the population are believers, Orthodox, but pagan symbols are still present. It’s more like a tribute to historical roots. Previously, each family had its own special belt, without which they did not go outside.
On the way, they visited the museum of Posden. There’s a lot of interesting stuff. We were even allowed to hold the teeth of mammoths in our hands. They say that they (teeth, not mammoths) can still be found on the river bank.
The nature is incredibly beautiful. One forest of what is worth. From him he blows something fabulous. Trees, wrapped in a snow blanket, look so majestic that pride of pride for our Motherland slips.
I managed to visit the Pechora-Ilyinsky Nature Reserve. Here there is a museum, and you can also watch and feed the moose in enclosures. Uncommon, but very exciting activity.
Everything here is very atmospheric, beautiful and original. Here, for example, is a monument. Not the monument that in the traditional perception honors the memory of a positive hero, and a monument to the local hawk – a terrible and avid peasant who chained chains, blocked traffic along the road and river and brazenly collected a tribute.
These local smiths forged a monument to a prosperous entrepreneur, probably, recalling the difficult historical past of the region. Hmm, it reminds modern realities …
On the way, we were waiting for a guest house with an uncomplicated name “Mishkin Les”, which is in the village of Maly Anyb. Homemade and insanely delicious food.
There is a wonderful view everywhere. A peculiar hermit’s color: a farm, a guest house, the owners built a chapel. I did not want to leave. There is a calm here that relaxes.
In general, guest houses are fed with typical Komi food: mushrooms, potatoes, fish, wild birds, elk, berries. Hospitality, food and local entertainment in this region are offered for very little money. I think this is not going to flood tourists, of course. Our route is designed for 5 days, the cost of accommodation and meals per person costs 12,000 rubles per person.
Really, a good place, I recommend to visit. The owners have created all the conditions for recreation: you can ride horses, hold a holiday, trekking, entertain a painting on clay, there are baths. Accommodation in wooden houses heated with firewood.
If you are going to go in the summer, then definitely visit the Kadam and Don Lakes. These are relict reservoirs. Transparent silence. They say that if you lower your legs into Lake Kadam, the bunches make you peeling. Yes, as on the Black Sea coast, you do not have to pay for it. And in the summer, judging by the stories, you can visit the Northern Catherine’s Canal.
You can agree on hunting in the old style with slacks and traps. It is possible to place in the guest house “Mitray Vas Kirka”, the museum of local lore with a stove, chambers or benches for spending the night or in the rest house “Don”.
In the summer, from the middle of June, the midge appears, but local people say that it does not bite.
By the way, Beeline and Megafon in many places do not catch at all, only in cities. The main networks are MTS and Tele 2.
Prices are absolutely affordable, at 300 rubles you can fill your fill. Probably, this is still a poorly regulated tourist stream. So there is an opportunity to get into the first wave.
By the way, you will be in Ust-Vymi, I recommend to stay in the guest house “Mariush Ordyn” from Elvira Dmytroshina (according to the business card, “the organizer of eco and ethno recreation in rural outback”). She is very sincere about every guest, children are sent to her to study Komi-cuisine and folk art. Prepare with her shanezhki, jelly, which is eaten with a spoon, and another Komi-food.
If you eat in these parts in winter, like us, then choose an SUV for your trip. It helped us more than once. For lovers of summer off-road here is a significant expanse. If you decide, then look in the group in VKontakte “Komi-Trophy”, there is a lot of useful information about this.
I must say that the journey is very rich. It lasted 5 days, and I never regretted this car. The land is full of amazing people: hermits, adherents of Komi-nationality. The owners of guest houses, and in fact ethnographic museums, are so sincere, with love and respect for the nature of the region, that you feel too cynical, because you do not reach their level in admiration for their small homeland.
Leaving these places was a bit sad, we began to look a little bit differently at our life and values.
People here are not spoiled, they do not feel fake.
I hope that as soon as tourists come here, this attitude will not spoil, because it creates an atmosphere of privacy and cleanliness of rest in these parts.
Here is a test of the pen on this resource. I apologize, if not at all in the topic, but I hope someone will benefit from the information. Thank you for your time.